Can UNESCO recognition save Japan’s shrinking sake industry?

J-STORIES — Japan’s sake brewing business is a valued artwork believed up to now again so far as 2,500 years. Regardless of sake’s deep roots in Japanese tradition, the business has been dealing with a disaster with declining home gross sales, a shrinking variety of breweries, and local weather challenges affecting rice yield.

Nonetheless, the popularity of sake brewing as an intangible cultural heritage of Japan by UNESCO earlier this month, provides a possibility for development, particularly in abroad markets. Business leaders consider this milestone can additional increase worldwide consciousness and exports, serving to revive the long-valued craft.

The UNESCO recognition comes amid a rising demand for Japan’s rice wine throughout Asia, Europe and Latin America. Even so, exports nonetheless stay a small share of Japan’s whole sake output — a major distinction from European grape wines, the place the vast majority of manufacturing, particularly in international locations like Spain and Italy, is destined for abroad markets.

In an effort to broaden sake’s international enchantment, some Japanese brewers have lately begun introducing non-traditional, revolutionary choices — reminiscent of glowing varieties often called “awa sake” — geared toward Western customers. Others are capitalizing on Japan’s surge in inbound tourism, boosted partially by a weaker yen, by providing sake-focused journey experiences, or “sake tourism.”

Junichiro Ozawa, one such brewer providing a sake tour, expressed heartfelt feelings in regards to the UNESCO recognition.

“It is a huge step for sake’s very lengthy historical past,” stated the 18th-generation head of the Ozawa Sake Brewery in western Tokyo.

Junichiro Ozawa, the 18th-generation head of Ozawa Sake Brewery in western Tokyo, showcases sake for tasting throughout a latest press tour. Supply: J-Tales (Identical Under)

He carries on the legacy of his household, who has been brewing sake since 1702. Deep within the mountains of the nature-rich a part of Tokyo, the world is thought for its contemporary and considerable properly water – an important ingredient in Japanese sake manufacturing.

The well located at Ozawa Sake Brewery —  The water is exceptionally pure and has been used for sake brewing for centuries. — The properly situated at Ozawa Sake Brewery — The water is exceptionally pure and has been used for sake brewing for hundreds of years.

The UNESCO designation not solely honors the product but additionally the dedication to mastering the century-old brewing strategies that outline Japanese sake. From utilizing kōji mould to the distinctive simultaneous saccharification and fermentation course of, sake brewing stands out from different brewed alcoholic drinks reminiscent of wine or beer. Traditionally, sake was saved in wood barrels. But fashionable breweries like Ozawa have turned to porcelain-enameled metal tanks to take care of constant high quality.

“This recognition just isn’t a advertising instrument, however it should increase consciousness of sake’s deep cultural roots,” he informed reporters on a latest press tour organized by the International Correspondents’ Membership of Japan. There are over 1,160 sake breweries in Japan, but Utsunomiya stated the variety of energetic breweries is declining yearly. The decline could also be as a consequence of a shrinking home market, inflation, and the results of local weather on rice cultivation. Regardless of the sake export worth growing tenfold since 1998, 2023 confirmed the primary lower in over 14 years.

Hitoshi Utsunomiya (center) answers questions by reporters at the Ozawa Sake Brewery in western Tokyo. Above and to the right hangs a cedar ball, symbolizing the god of sake-making. — Hitoshi Utsunomiya (middle) solutions questions by reporters on the Ozawa Sake Brewery in western Tokyo. Above and to the precise hangs a cedar ball, symbolizing the god of sake-making.

In accordance with Ministry of Finance commerce statistics, sake exports totaled greater than ¥41 billion ($265 million) in 2023, with the U.S. and China as the highest customers worldwide. The UNESCO itemizing is predicted to spice up sake’s worldwide recognition, with Utsunomiya hoping that sake could be “celebrated equally to the wine in Georgia or beer in Belgium.” The JSS hopes the popularity will result in elevated brewery excursions nationwide, which fall behind the recognition of winery visits. Regardless of sake’s prevalence in Japan’s market, it lags within the international market. In accordance with Fortune Enterprise Insights, in 2023 wine had a world market worth of over $230 billion, and beer over $821 billion. Sake tops out at simply over $12.5 billion.

A view of the Tama River just across the street from the Ozawa Sake Brewery in nature-rich Western Tokyo. Visitors can sit at tables along the water and enjoy sake along with other delicacies. — A view of the Tama River simply throughout the road from the Ozawa Sake Brewery in nature-rich Western Tokyo. Guests can sit at tables alongside the water and luxuriate in sake together with different delicacies.

“We would like Japanese individuals to acknowledge how nice their tradition is,” Utsunomiya stated. A cedar ball hung above throughout his speech symbolizing the god of sake-making. The ball, often called a Sugidama, serves as a reminder of how sake’s custom is intertwined with Japan’s historical past and religious beliefs.

The sake brewing course of is labor-intensive and requires cautious precision and experience. At Ozawa Sake Brewery, 17 employees produce sake in a cycle that may final 20 days to 2 months, with the fermentation course of taking one other 20 to 30 days. Japanese sake is designated beneath strict legal guidelines that separate it from sake produced in different areas of the world. For sake to be designated Japanese, it should meet necessities relating to the kind of rice, kōji mould, water, and quantity of distilled alcohol.

Sake at present accounts for simply 0.2% of the worldwide alcoholic beverage market. In accordance with JSS, business leaders are hoping to not less than double this quantity. Efforts are underway to decrease import taxes with the U.S., which is sake’s second-largest international shopper following China. Breweries are additionally determining how you can cope with the challenges caused by local weather change, which is pushing rice manufacturing areas additional north as increased temperatures are making rice grains tougher to dissolve and fewer flavorful.

The UNESCO recognition comes at a time when sake is gaining extra consideration worldwide. As individuals uncover its wealthy flavors and historical past, sake brewers hope this recognition will safe its place within the alcoholic beverage market. For breweries like Ozawa’s, this milestone is a testomony to centuries of dedication to their craft and a hopeful step that future members of the Ozawa household can proceed sake manufacturing for generations.

“There is no such thing as a god that does not drink sake (in Japan),” says Ozawa, quoting an outdated Japanese saying. Now with UNESCO’s recognition and and an growing consideration on sake, the world could quickly perceive why.